Aug 28/07 - Even before leaving on our trip we talked about returning on the Cassiar Highway. Every chance we got we asked about the condition of the road as various reports concerned us about the wisdom of our choice. The last traveller we questioned assured us that although recently washed out in the Dease Lake area by early, heavy rains it was now in passable condition. For the past two days we have averaged about 50 km/hr as the road is in many places, still being repaired with many stretches covered with loose gravel. The rains must have been torrential as in several places the road had been completely rebuilt. The scenery however was no disappointment. For several miles we travelled beside a wide valley containing swamp, lush grass and clumps of low willow - and not one moose!
A young black bear and a cross fox on the road was all the wildlife we encountered. But tonight the drive seems worthwhile as the motorhome is sitting mere feet from the edge of stunning Kinoskan Lake. Fish are jumping, (trout-not stocked) the water is still and in the background rugged mountains slope down to the lake. After a delicious outdoor supper we sat beside the water and watched a loon searching for his repast. To reiterate - the weather has been superb so tonight as we hunker down we don't mind that a few raindrops are falling. Better this than snow as we have heard is the plight of our friends who we left days ago further north.
Aug 31 - This evening finds us in Cache Creek - cheek to joul with long week-end campers and a delightful young couple from Germany - who say my name sounds like it came from the south of Germany in the Tyrol area.
To sum up the past few days - rain, mud, road repairs and gravel. and when the Cassiar finally became a road - hills and valleys with lots of twists and turns. No complaints though - even if we are spoiled Albertans.
We've decided to slide over to Vancouver to Nan's grandkids and therefor have done very little sight-seeing in our attempt to make miles. The country-side, lately, is not mountainous but still offers a lot of scenery. Travelling along the Fraser the hills are sometimes tree covered, other times valleys open up and farms and ranches appear. The farms almost all sport old log buildings - cabin, once grand houses and even bank barns. I'm reminded of books I've read by Grant MacEwan about the cattle drives along this route to the gold fields of the Yukon. Those men were a tough breed as they pushed large herds through uncharted country and across large rivers and lakes. You can't begrudge them the princely sum of a dollar a pound they got for the their beef!
That concludes our Yukon adventure - stayed for further developments.
Friday, August 31, 2007
Monday, August 27, 2007
Starting Our Way Back
Aug 23 - Having reconnected with our Whitehorse friends we were prepared to take up where we left off. The Beringia Museum centered on the history of wildlife and natives of the Yukon. It was fascinating to see evidence (skeletons and tusks) of mammoths and mastadons that were once so prolific and contemporary to the native people. It seems animals were so much larger then including many varieties of cats; lions and tigers and would you believe giant sloths and beavers. Remember how we were taught that "science" knew that North American horses were no bigger than dogs and had 3 toes! The museum now displays evidence of a single-hoofed horse at least the size of a Welsh pony - and it actually looked like a horse! I knew it ---
Another interesting point with the melting of mountain top glaciers many spears and arrows are being found beneath the ice as men once hunted caribou that sought the coolness of the ice during the summer. An item of more recent history was the paddle-wheeler, the Klondike, which plied the Yukon river transporting people and goods to Dawson City. The boat is 240ft long, 49 ft wide and required only four feet of water while carrying 300 tons. Because of the shifting gravel bars the pilots would sometimes have to reverse the paddle wheel, back off the bar and try another channel. Occasionally one of the approximately 600 steamers were run aground so badly they were abandoned where their remains can still be seen.
Aug 24 - Our friends graciously drove us south to Skagway which is 15 miles across the bay from Haines, Alaska. The town is very well preserved and still sports wooden sidewalks. Most of the people in town came off a couple of huge cruise ships though we did see some cowboys from High River who drove up for the fishing. The trip there and back was the highlight as we drove very close and personal to high and rocky crags and over waterfalls rushing down to the Pacific. We marvelled at the train climbing the White Pass along the Chilkoot Trail where prospectors carried their provisions over the 35 mile divide before there were tracks. Every man was required to bring 1 ton of food & supplies to avoid starving. Some tried the trip with horses and mules but most of the animals never completed the trip. Long, wide valleys of ancient lava held many small lakes, then we entered Yukon again to huge lakes and tree covered valleys. Many of the mountain tops are so high they are nost often clothed in clouds. Today was no exception as their proximity to the coast causes a lot of moisture.
On the way down we were very pleased to be entertained by a grizzly sow and her yearling cub eating berries in the ditch beside the highway - they are spectacular animals & we have many pictures of them including one where mom gave the cub a playful cuff. Better him than me.
Our next stop was a small village called Carcross on the head of Bennett Lake which had given many homes water floors because of the high water in the Yukon. We also watched a couple of native fellows wood carving, creating beautiful work, best described as huge masks. Unfortunately, way too big for the motor home.
The effect this part of the world has on many people was exemplified by a dear couple who parked next to us in Haines Junction. They are from Los Angeles where he had an exciting career as a helicopter pilot for the LA fire department. In May they flew to Alaska, went home to move their son into their home and headed back to Alaska to live. A common story is - "we came to work for a year, that was in '74! There's a real sense of community in the north as well as the opportunity to live close to some of the most awesome scenery in the world. I told a park warden if the weather was like this year round I'd move up here and she said 'so would half the country'.
Aug 27 - Leaving Dawson Peaks Yukon it's 10:30 am til next edition.
Another interesting point with the melting of mountain top glaciers many spears and arrows are being found beneath the ice as men once hunted caribou that sought the coolness of the ice during the summer. An item of more recent history was the paddle-wheeler, the Klondike, which plied the Yukon river transporting people and goods to Dawson City. The boat is 240ft long, 49 ft wide and required only four feet of water while carrying 300 tons. Because of the shifting gravel bars the pilots would sometimes have to reverse the paddle wheel, back off the bar and try another channel. Occasionally one of the approximately 600 steamers were run aground so badly they were abandoned where their remains can still be seen.
Aug 24 - Our friends graciously drove us south to Skagway which is 15 miles across the bay from Haines, Alaska. The town is very well preserved and still sports wooden sidewalks. Most of the people in town came off a couple of huge cruise ships though we did see some cowboys from High River who drove up for the fishing. The trip there and back was the highlight as we drove very close and personal to high and rocky crags and over waterfalls rushing down to the Pacific. We marvelled at the train climbing the White Pass along the Chilkoot Trail where prospectors carried their provisions over the 35 mile divide before there were tracks. Every man was required to bring 1 ton of food & supplies to avoid starving. Some tried the trip with horses and mules but most of the animals never completed the trip. Long, wide valleys of ancient lava held many small lakes, then we entered Yukon again to huge lakes and tree covered valleys. Many of the mountain tops are so high they are nost often clothed in clouds. Today was no exception as their proximity to the coast causes a lot of moisture.
On the way down we were very pleased to be entertained by a grizzly sow and her yearling cub eating berries in the ditch beside the highway - they are spectacular animals & we have many pictures of them including one where mom gave the cub a playful cuff. Better him than me.
Our next stop was a small village called Carcross on the head of Bennett Lake which had given many homes water floors because of the high water in the Yukon. We also watched a couple of native fellows wood carving, creating beautiful work, best described as huge masks. Unfortunately, way too big for the motor home.
The effect this part of the world has on many people was exemplified by a dear couple who parked next to us in Haines Junction. They are from Los Angeles where he had an exciting career as a helicopter pilot for the LA fire department. In May they flew to Alaska, went home to move their son into their home and headed back to Alaska to live. A common story is - "we came to work for a year, that was in '74! There's a real sense of community in the north as well as the opportunity to live close to some of the most awesome scenery in the world. I told a park warden if the weather was like this year round I'd move up here and she said 'so would half the country'.
Aug 27 - Leaving Dawson Peaks Yukon it's 10:30 am til next edition.
Thursday, August 23, 2007
The Mighty Yukon River
August 19/20 - Catching pike on an arm of Kluane Lake and snapping photos of eagles was a great way to spend a Sunday afternoon. Monday found us on Kathleen Lake again -this time on our own personal tour with a berry picking session on an island. It seems every time we're out the mountains, lakes and rivers seem more spectacular. While glassing the nearby mountain slopes we spotted several herd/flocks(?) of mountain goats.
Tuesday my buddy's wife became our tour guide while he participated in a native entrepreneurial(?) presentation. We headed north on the Alaska Highway again to an old abandoned trading post the head of the lake called Silver City. There were the most log buildings we'd ever seen in one spot as it was a village at one time, about 1900 or slightly before. The main industry was raising foxes and the number of log and chicken wire cages was amazing. Some of the buildings comprised of NWMP detachment and to stand in those buildings and imagine the human dynamics that took place there was awe inspiring. The sad part is the no one has taken the time to maintain the buildings, pens and fences. It would be a real tourist attraction had it been kept up.
From there we crossed Slim's River which used to drain Kluane Lake a short distance south to the Pacific Ocean. After the glacial ice dam melted that blocked the water on the north end of the lake the water began to flow northward to join the Yukon on its 2000 mile trip to the Bering Sea. The cliffs around the lake still bear evidence of the form lake level 30 ft above the present. The irony of the Yukon River is it begins its journey a mere 15 miles from the Pacific. Seeing this wide river so close (relatively) to its beginning I can't imagine how huge it must be after travelling so far and taking in all the other rivers along the way.
Next stop was Burwash Landing where my friend grew up. We met some of his extended family and there seems to be quite a few them. At the very impressive museum there I bought a book about the history of the RCMP in Yukon which featured a full page and photo of his grandfather.
We ended our tour with another great meal at our friend's with bison steaks with all the trimmings finished with a peach & strawberry cake. Those of you who we will see on our return will notice we've grown in more ways than knowledge and experience.
August 22 - Sadly we have taken our leave of Haines Junction and our friends there. Nan is quite adamant that she could live there and that she was offered two jobs. If she has two - I won't need any!
Back on the road so there will be more.
Tuesday my buddy's wife became our tour guide while he participated in a native entrepreneurial(?) presentation. We headed north on the Alaska Highway again to an old abandoned trading post the head of the lake called Silver City. There were the most log buildings we'd ever seen in one spot as it was a village at one time, about 1900 or slightly before. The main industry was raising foxes and the number of log and chicken wire cages was amazing. Some of the buildings comprised of NWMP detachment and to stand in those buildings and imagine the human dynamics that took place there was awe inspiring. The sad part is the no one has taken the time to maintain the buildings, pens and fences. It would be a real tourist attraction had it been kept up.
From there we crossed Slim's River which used to drain Kluane Lake a short distance south to the Pacific Ocean. After the glacial ice dam melted that blocked the water on the north end of the lake the water began to flow northward to join the Yukon on its 2000 mile trip to the Bering Sea. The cliffs around the lake still bear evidence of the form lake level 30 ft above the present. The irony of the Yukon River is it begins its journey a mere 15 miles from the Pacific. Seeing this wide river so close (relatively) to its beginning I can't imagine how huge it must be after travelling so far and taking in all the other rivers along the way.
Next stop was Burwash Landing where my friend grew up. We met some of his extended family and there seems to be quite a few them. At the very impressive museum there I bought a book about the history of the RCMP in Yukon which featured a full page and photo of his grandfather.
We ended our tour with another great meal at our friend's with bison steaks with all the trimmings finished with a peach & strawberry cake. Those of you who we will see on our return will notice we've grown in more ways than knowledge and experience.
August 22 - Sadly we have taken our leave of Haines Junction and our friends there. Nan is quite adamant that she could live there and that she was offered two jobs. If she has two - I won't need any!
Back on the road so there will be more.
Sunday, August 19, 2007
Kluane Again
August 18 - Today we were treated to another trip to Kluane and the cabin - this time with boat and fishing gear. The boat is inflatable, has an outboard motor and easily handled my friend and I. On a small lake formed by a creek which runs into Kluane we set out on our quest for pike. My guide being very experience in the sport, removed the hooks from a lure and casted across beds of weeds. This drew the fish out to the open where I dropped in my lure and started catching fish. The two were about 10 lbs and then a smaller one and a couple got away. (That's a typical fishing story) We only kept one. The high light for me was a walk along a high ridge between two lakes to a tall old spruce with an eagle next perched near the top. A single, very large juvenile looked down at me with very little concern while its beautiful very large mother flew around me squalling her displeasure.
On the way back to the cabin we encountered a fat, half-grown black bear who seemed quite spooky. When we arrived at the cabin the girls said "Guess who we had for a visitor! They said the bear was just climbing on the deck when he heard a sound from the cabin and high-tailed it.
We're all rather disappointed in our four-legged guardians as not a one of them rose to the girls defense, let alone sound the alarm but rather thought it expedient to keep a low profile throughout the incident. Discretion is the greater part of valor' must be their byword.
I got a taste of Nan's affliction as I had turned any ankle on a rock and couldn't put any weight on it. During the night I felt a slight click and today am on my way to recovering. Nan seems fine if she doesn't sit too long, walk too far or get too hot. She doesn't spend enough time resting - so I usually show her how it's done.
We finally visited with the folks we met in Liard. It was fun recounting experiences of long ago as she was on the basketball team in Duchess and of course knows all my relatives from there. I usually try to limit myself to one helping per (for obvious reasons) but the bbq salmon, salad and steamed veggies were to good to resist. The the desert - German apple cake - wonder if she has any left.
Our weather has been absolutely wonderful since we arrived and it has been as warm as 30 degrees and this has been the nicest weather they've had here all summer. So they tell us we can't leave so the weather stays nice.
Tomorrow we are heading back out to Kathleen Lake and going to pick raspberries and black berries on one the islands with our friends and then on to Burwash Landing the next day so will fill you in on those trips later.
On the way back to the cabin we encountered a fat, half-grown black bear who seemed quite spooky. When we arrived at the cabin the girls said "Guess who we had for a visitor! They said the bear was just climbing on the deck when he heard a sound from the cabin and high-tailed it.
We're all rather disappointed in our four-legged guardians as not a one of them rose to the girls defense, let alone sound the alarm but rather thought it expedient to keep a low profile throughout the incident. Discretion is the greater part of valor' must be their byword.
I got a taste of Nan's affliction as I had turned any ankle on a rock and couldn't put any weight on it. During the night I felt a slight click and today am on my way to recovering. Nan seems fine if she doesn't sit too long, walk too far or get too hot. She doesn't spend enough time resting - so I usually show her how it's done.
We finally visited with the folks we met in Liard. It was fun recounting experiences of long ago as she was on the basketball team in Duchess and of course knows all my relatives from there. I usually try to limit myself to one helping per (for obvious reasons) but the bbq salmon, salad and steamed veggies were to good to resist. The the desert - German apple cake - wonder if she has any left.
Our weather has been absolutely wonderful since we arrived and it has been as warm as 30 degrees and this has been the nicest weather they've had here all summer. So they tell us we can't leave so the weather stays nice.
Tomorrow we are heading back out to Kathleen Lake and going to pick raspberries and black berries on one the islands with our friends and then on to Burwash Landing the next day so will fill you in on those trips later.
Thursday, August 16, 2007
Motor Homes & Motor Bikes
Aug 8 - 12/07
Arrived in Whitehorse and immediately drove to my friends tanning establishment. Have never seen so hides and furs - all soft and luxurious. He uses a lot of traditional methods and is very busy serving the trapper, hunter and native communities. We were invited to park the coach in their yard north of town beside the Yukon River. Gorgeous spot with mountains all around, they built their log home on 75 acres of pasture and woods. He is very knowledgeable about wild life and the environment having been a park warden in NWT so is a wealth of information as he showed us around including a boat trip down the Yukon to the famous Lake Laberge. There we visited a deserted native village complete with cabins, cemetery, raspberries and rhubarb. All lakes and rivers in the area are away above recorded levels due to the late warm temperatures and deep winter snow. Yukon has many museums - very informative regarding several historic subjects geological formations, wildlife, native history, the gold rush and the construction of the Alaska hi way. Speaking of the hi way - I've never seen so many motor homes and motorbikes. We see all kinds - big ones, small ones - one fellow was riding a WWII replica with side care and camouflage - a brand I'd never heard of. When asked how old it was he replied that he had just bought it and it had 4000 miles on it.
Back to Whitehorse - the hospitality was great and Nan really enjoyed spoiling the pretty black mare, Raven, with apples & Benson buddied up to the border collie, Phantom. There's so much history here, and some of it not that ancient. Sam McGee's cabin still stands and would you believe he was born in Ontario and is buried in Beiseker! I was some disillusioned!
The wooden fish ladder on the Yukon River resembles the old wooden flumes we knew as kids but the thing is almost 1/2 mile long. A drive up a high look-out hill over the valley and a morning trip to the hot springs rounded out the Whitehorse visit. We plan to stop again on the way back.
Aug 12 - Slid into Haines Junction after a very scenic afternoon drive. Parked in an RV park then called my old art school buddy to ask where he lived. "Right across the road" was the reply. So we dropped in and renewed old acquaintance. With their family grown and gone they're left with two sibling lab crosses - Bonnie & Clyde. Next day my buddy took us for a very pleasant ride in his tour boat on Kathleen Lake. Besides the rugged mountains coming down to the smooth, new deep water, we were treated to a visit to his grandmother's trapping cabin, deserted since the 40's. A nearby lake (Louise) was named in her honor by her son-in-law because it reminded him of her calm, quiet demeanor. Also we saw a blond grizzly on a high slope above the lake.
Next day the four of us drove to their cute log cabin on a hill overlooking Kluane lake. The meal cooked over an open fire was delicious! On the way home something was spotted in the bush by the side of the road - one said bear, another moose but I was adamant it was a horse because all I could see over the bush was withers, sway back and rump - and it was black. Backing up we saw hugest, blackest grizzly calmly chomping its way through the grass and bushes. For some reason our camera wouldn't pick up the image - Anyway we saw it up close and it was huge.
Aug 15 - The two of us headed for Haines, Alaska and in doing so we drove from Yukon, through BC then into Alaska. We both feel the scenery en route was the most awesome so far. High glacier covered mountains overlooked broad sweeping valleys - some forest covered, others green with low brush and grass but all sporting lakes and streams. I wonder what it would be like to ride through those valleys to the foot of the glaciers. Approaching Haines we came alongside Chilkat River, famous for the thousands of bald headed eagles that feed on the salmon. Years ago they were considered a nuisance and were hunted almost to extinction. Now they're back and people come from around the world to eagle - watch.
Haines is small town catering to tourists with a lot of souvenir shops lining the streets. Main street ends at the harbour where many small boats are moored and a huge cruise ship sat waiting for its passengers to finish their sight - seeing. I must comment on the weather - very warm 25 today and very few mosquitoes. Some nights get close to freezing but warms up quickly and daylight last til almost 11:00 pm.
Keep tuned.
Arrived in Whitehorse and immediately drove to my friends tanning establishment. Have never seen so hides and furs - all soft and luxurious. He uses a lot of traditional methods and is very busy serving the trapper, hunter and native communities. We were invited to park the coach in their yard north of town beside the Yukon River. Gorgeous spot with mountains all around, they built their log home on 75 acres of pasture and woods. He is very knowledgeable about wild life and the environment having been a park warden in NWT so is a wealth of information as he showed us around including a boat trip down the Yukon to the famous Lake Laberge. There we visited a deserted native village complete with cabins, cemetery, raspberries and rhubarb. All lakes and rivers in the area are away above recorded levels due to the late warm temperatures and deep winter snow. Yukon has many museums - very informative regarding several historic subjects geological formations, wildlife, native history, the gold rush and the construction of the Alaska hi way. Speaking of the hi way - I've never seen so many motor homes and motorbikes. We see all kinds - big ones, small ones - one fellow was riding a WWII replica with side care and camouflage - a brand I'd never heard of. When asked how old it was he replied that he had just bought it and it had 4000 miles on it.
Back to Whitehorse - the hospitality was great and Nan really enjoyed spoiling the pretty black mare, Raven, with apples & Benson buddied up to the border collie, Phantom. There's so much history here, and some of it not that ancient. Sam McGee's cabin still stands and would you believe he was born in Ontario and is buried in Beiseker! I was some disillusioned!
The wooden fish ladder on the Yukon River resembles the old wooden flumes we knew as kids but the thing is almost 1/2 mile long. A drive up a high look-out hill over the valley and a morning trip to the hot springs rounded out the Whitehorse visit. We plan to stop again on the way back.
Aug 12 - Slid into Haines Junction after a very scenic afternoon drive. Parked in an RV park then called my old art school buddy to ask where he lived. "Right across the road" was the reply. So we dropped in and renewed old acquaintance. With their family grown and gone they're left with two sibling lab crosses - Bonnie & Clyde. Next day my buddy took us for a very pleasant ride in his tour boat on Kathleen Lake. Besides the rugged mountains coming down to the smooth, new deep water, we were treated to a visit to his grandmother's trapping cabin, deserted since the 40's. A nearby lake (Louise) was named in her honor by her son-in-law because it reminded him of her calm, quiet demeanor. Also we saw a blond grizzly on a high slope above the lake.
Next day the four of us drove to their cute log cabin on a hill overlooking Kluane lake. The meal cooked over an open fire was delicious! On the way home something was spotted in the bush by the side of the road - one said bear, another moose but I was adamant it was a horse because all I could see over the bush was withers, sway back and rump - and it was black. Backing up we saw hugest, blackest grizzly calmly chomping its way through the grass and bushes. For some reason our camera wouldn't pick up the image - Anyway we saw it up close and it was huge.
Aug 15 - The two of us headed for Haines, Alaska and in doing so we drove from Yukon, through BC then into Alaska. We both feel the scenery en route was the most awesome so far. High glacier covered mountains overlooked broad sweeping valleys - some forest covered, others green with low brush and grass but all sporting lakes and streams. I wonder what it would be like to ride through those valleys to the foot of the glaciers. Approaching Haines we came alongside Chilkat River, famous for the thousands of bald headed eagles that feed on the salmon. Years ago they were considered a nuisance and were hunted almost to extinction. Now they're back and people come from around the world to eagle - watch.
Haines is small town catering to tourists with a lot of souvenir shops lining the streets. Main street ends at the harbour where many small boats are moored and a huge cruise ship sat waiting for its passengers to finish their sight - seeing. I must comment on the weather - very warm 25 today and very few mosquitoes. Some nights get close to freezing but warms up quickly and daylight last til almost 11:00 pm.
Keep tuned.
Tuesday, August 7, 2007
Liard and Beyond
Friday, August 3 - Arrived at Liard River Hotsprings - 19 hr drive from Fort St John. Since we're a few days ahead of schedule we've decided to enjoy an extedned stay in the hotsprins campground. Amenities are non-existant but the losts are private, large and shaded. Rather than attempt a description of the springs I had a pamphlet provided to us and if you are interested I'll relay it to you at a later date as my typist says it's to long (that would be me-NAN)
The geological origin of hotsprings is believed to be similiar to that of Banff Hotsprings. Deep circulating ground water heated by the earth's center reaches the surface through cracks (thrust faults) in tghe sedimentary rock. The water, rich in minerals (calcium sulphate, smells like rotten eggs) mixes with the air and other chemicals and encrusting "tufa" (calcium carbonate) forms. These minerals form the bas of the hanging gardens and are constantly changing the structure of the hotsprings environment and quote. Nan says a blog should just be recording where we are - I say, like David Thompson, we should attempt to describe what we see and experience. If you agree with Nan please feel free to read just the names of the places. Otherwise - read on.
Aug 2 - Happy Birthday Little Brother - We left Fort St John on a wide, smooth paved road with gently rolling hills and broad sweeping curves. My impression was - This is going to be a breeze! Not much later the hills became much higher and steeper and the road began to narrow considerably. It was beginning to feel like we were travelling vertically as much as were horizontally. The biggest concern was the numberour gravel patches that apparently were supposed to be repairs. The poor CRV bears the evidence! On the plus side the scenery was chagning from claustrophobic brush to more open views of the hills and valleys. The hills began looking more like low mountains covered with trees and the road began looking like the trunk road going out to Waiparous.
With a many ups and downs on the road it became difficult to tell how steep we were descending thank goodness for the engine retarder brakes. Past Fort Nelson was a large alping lake lying between mountain peaks and aptly called Summit Lake at 1295 m elevation. The real test for the motorhome was long steep ascent called Steamboat Pass. To appreciate the clim consider that Ft Nelson is 422m elevation and SB is 1270m. The scenery was becoming more impressive as the mountains were towering above the tree line and the rivers were wide and rushing. Caribou, sheep (stone) and deer were plentiful along the road but no bears or moose. We arrived at Liard Hotsprings at 7:30pm
Just we were told by fellow travellers, we are connecting with people - which most of you know is a favourite pasttime of mine. While at the pool and visiting with an elderly couple from Taylor I mentioned Brooks. Instantly a lady piped up and said "That's my home town - well actually Duchess." When I looked at her she said, I saw your picture the other day! To shorten this somewhat - she had visited her sister in Calgary who had attended a get together that we were at in May at a mutual friend's. Comparing notes we discovered she and her husband now live in Haines Junction and know both the families we plan to visit. Since they were heading home from AB we now have three families to visit. Of course she knows my part of the family who grew up in Duchess.
Aug 3 - Camped at Liard Hotsprings - Happy Birthday to my Little Sister
Aug 5 - We took a side trip by back tracking to Muncho Late - Kaska for "large Lake". Measuring 7 1/2 miles long it is one of the biggest in the Rockies. The marks the northern edge of the Rockies as the range continuing north are of a differnt geological formation and are called the MacKenzie Mountains. This stretch of the Alaska Highway was considered one of the most difficult as the mountains rise almost straight up from the lake and many pieces of equipment were lost as they toppled into the deep water.
We discovered that the odd looking sheep we encountered (they looked somewhat undernourished) are a sub-species of the Dall further north. This group is called Stone sheep (after a explorer) and is considered a thin horn as opposed to the thick horns we are familiar with in the South.
Last evening the main camp kitchen in the center in the center of the campground became very noisey as a group of hooligans (one of the park personnel called them) began hollering, blowing compressed air horns and firing bear bangers. After a confrontation by some folks in the vicinity, park supervisors asked them to leave which they did amid loud honks and gangs. They were pursued and stopped at a construction site on the Liard Bridge. There they were fined and banned from all parks between Liard and Fort Nelson. Guess you can't have fun unless you're making noise and being abnoxious.
The poor CRV is getting very pitted from rocks so we had to make a cover for her. Thanks to inheriting one of Freddies bright yellow blankets and red tie downs she now looks an Easter present - just hope it works.
Aug 7 - After a night of pouring rain we left Watson Lake heading for Teslin. Watson is very small but stretches a considerable distance along the highway. It's main attraction was the "Sign Forest" with thousands of names and places on assorted signs hanging one row upon row of 6 X 6 poles. We drove in rain most of the day but could still enjoy the broad tree covered valleys and numerous wide rivers.
The highlight of othe day was coming upon a large (50 or so) herd of bison right on the road. If I say so myself the big bulls were quite simmiliar to my bronze and it was a real thrill to get so close to them. (shameless self - promotion)
This evening finds us a cozy RV park with cabins and a restaurant (serving Mexican food!) overlooking Morley Cove on Teslin Lake. The proprietor of course knows our friends in Haines Junction. In spite of the distance between settlements everyone seems to know everyone else.
Bye for now - stay tuned
The geological origin of hotsprings is believed to be similiar to that of Banff Hotsprings. Deep circulating ground water heated by the earth's center reaches the surface through cracks (thrust faults) in tghe sedimentary rock. The water, rich in minerals (calcium sulphate, smells like rotten eggs) mixes with the air and other chemicals and encrusting "tufa" (calcium carbonate) forms. These minerals form the bas of the hanging gardens and are constantly changing the structure of the hotsprings environment and quote. Nan says a blog should just be recording where we are - I say, like David Thompson, we should attempt to describe what we see and experience. If you agree with Nan please feel free to read just the names of the places. Otherwise - read on.
Aug 2 - Happy Birthday Little Brother - We left Fort St John on a wide, smooth paved road with gently rolling hills and broad sweeping curves. My impression was - This is going to be a breeze! Not much later the hills became much higher and steeper and the road began to narrow considerably. It was beginning to feel like we were travelling vertically as much as were horizontally. The biggest concern was the numberour gravel patches that apparently were supposed to be repairs. The poor CRV bears the evidence! On the plus side the scenery was chagning from claustrophobic brush to more open views of the hills and valleys. The hills began looking more like low mountains covered with trees and the road began looking like the trunk road going out to Waiparous.
With a many ups and downs on the road it became difficult to tell how steep we were descending thank goodness for the engine retarder brakes. Past Fort Nelson was a large alping lake lying between mountain peaks and aptly called Summit Lake at 1295 m elevation. The real test for the motorhome was long steep ascent called Steamboat Pass. To appreciate the clim consider that Ft Nelson is 422m elevation and SB is 1270m. The scenery was becoming more impressive as the mountains were towering above the tree line and the rivers were wide and rushing. Caribou, sheep (stone) and deer were plentiful along the road but no bears or moose. We arrived at Liard Hotsprings at 7:30pm
Just we were told by fellow travellers, we are connecting with people - which most of you know is a favourite pasttime of mine. While at the pool and visiting with an elderly couple from Taylor I mentioned Brooks. Instantly a lady piped up and said "That's my home town - well actually Duchess." When I looked at her she said, I saw your picture the other day! To shorten this somewhat - she had visited her sister in Calgary who had attended a get together that we were at in May at a mutual friend's. Comparing notes we discovered she and her husband now live in Haines Junction and know both the families we plan to visit. Since they were heading home from AB we now have three families to visit. Of course she knows my part of the family who grew up in Duchess.
Aug 3 - Camped at Liard Hotsprings - Happy Birthday to my Little Sister
Aug 5 - We took a side trip by back tracking to Muncho Late - Kaska for "large Lake". Measuring 7 1/2 miles long it is one of the biggest in the Rockies. The marks the northern edge of the Rockies as the range continuing north are of a differnt geological formation and are called the MacKenzie Mountains. This stretch of the Alaska Highway was considered one of the most difficult as the mountains rise almost straight up from the lake and many pieces of equipment were lost as they toppled into the deep water.
We discovered that the odd looking sheep we encountered (they looked somewhat undernourished) are a sub-species of the Dall further north. This group is called Stone sheep (after a explorer) and is considered a thin horn as opposed to the thick horns we are familiar with in the South.
Last evening the main camp kitchen in the center in the center of the campground became very noisey as a group of hooligans (one of the park personnel called them) began hollering, blowing compressed air horns and firing bear bangers. After a confrontation by some folks in the vicinity, park supervisors asked them to leave which they did amid loud honks and gangs. They were pursued and stopped at a construction site on the Liard Bridge. There they were fined and banned from all parks between Liard and Fort Nelson. Guess you can't have fun unless you're making noise and being abnoxious.
The poor CRV is getting very pitted from rocks so we had to make a cover for her. Thanks to inheriting one of Freddies bright yellow blankets and red tie downs she now looks an Easter present - just hope it works.
Aug 7 - After a night of pouring rain we left Watson Lake heading for Teslin. Watson is very small but stretches a considerable distance along the highway. It's main attraction was the "Sign Forest" with thousands of names and places on assorted signs hanging one row upon row of 6 X 6 poles. We drove in rain most of the day but could still enjoy the broad tree covered valleys and numerous wide rivers.
The highlight of othe day was coming upon a large (50 or so) herd of bison right on the road. If I say so myself the big bulls were quite simmiliar to my bronze and it was a real thrill to get so close to them. (shameless self - promotion)
This evening finds us a cozy RV park with cabins and a restaurant (serving Mexican food!) overlooking Morley Cove on Teslin Lake. The proprietor of course knows our friends in Haines Junction. In spite of the distance between settlements everyone seems to know everyone else.
Bye for now - stay tuned
Wednesday, August 1, 2007
Saddletramps
It's been awhile since we communicated and I'm getting the I got in high school when my homework wasn't done. A bit of a controversyhas arisen regarding my mentioning names in my ramblings so I've reluctantly ceased the practice. But you will know who you are and that we're thinking of and thanking you for the part you play in our lives.
As we move from place to place I feel like the drifters (or saddle tramps as they were more commonly called) of old who enjoyed the hospitality of those who were more settled. To those of you, family and friends, who welcomed us and made our stay enjoyable - Thank you:
The Maple Creek area still sticks in my mind as I can enjoy the hills and trees as well as the wide open spaces. As well I must mention the winery, yes winery, south of Maple Creek, which was recently stated by a ranching family and is going great guns. Their new adobe-like building is nestled in the hills alongside a creek with fountains, ponds and vineyards. A rustic log house, no longer inhabitable, reminds one of the history of the area when settlers picked the choisest spots to erect their buildings - the ideal place offering water, firewood, building material and shelter from the prairie winds. The name of the winery is Cypress Hills Vineyards and is on the road to historic Fort Walsh, they are a must see.
From Maple Creek it was back to Rolling Hills we took a quick trip north to Patricia to connect with long-lost cousins who own the famous Patricia Hotel and Steak Pit. It was great food and great company all around. On the way back, just at dusk, we spotted the biggest set white tail antlers we'd ever seen just north of Tilley. At first I thought it was an elk. Unfortunatelty they didn't show on the photo but someone this fall have the biggest racks he's ever bagged - our plans to travel to Prince Albert squelched by doctor appointments and maladies of the motorhome type. Brake and air conditioning both requiring attention, we headed for Calgary and the generous hospitality of a good friend while the coach was being attended to. While in Calgary we attened a small rodeo in Kananaskis in order to visit the the little sweetie we used to babysit while living in Waiparous. Her dad is the pickup man and her mom the time keeper so we snuck in under the guise of grandparents of the little one. Also picking up was an old friend who daughter, a barrel racer We're very proud of her accomplishments and wish her the best in her studies. She gets to take her horse along so her dad is hauling them. It's refreshing when in these times of narcissim, to see parents who are devoted the welfare and development of ther children.
Friday, July 20n found us heading north - a brief stop to visit a dear 94 year old aunt in Olds - then on to Drayton Valey to spend a few days with friends.. More hospitality , including golf with a buddy, who is always good for a tip or two (when asked) and a side trip to Brazeau Dam to the west. The damn was build in the '60's to provide hydro power and a steady water supply to communities down stream. TGhe earthworks are amazing as the water is stored then directed several miles to the actual generating site. Huge flumes carry the water down to the generators, the the water is allowed to continue it's leisurely trip through its natual course. Drayton Valley is a bustling little burg with indications of a healthy enery industry continuing for sometime. Whin DV we discover a defective wiring job from the coach to the CRV so an hour and several dollars later we were once again on the road.
Monday evening we pulled into rain soaked Grande Prairie where evidence of abundant, if not excessive, mositure could be seen in the streets and the fields. Fortunately we missed the big downpour which flooded the s treets and left hay swaths turning black. It's disheartening to see rain filled ruts in an alfalfa field where desparate measures to save the crop are of no avail. Our Grande Prairie friends are alsway a joy to visit and we got cuddle the new grandson - a happier and more contented baby we've never seen.
While in Grande Praire I had the opportunity to drive the gravel truck I drove last fall. I'm going to encourage Nan to get her Class 3 so we can trade off driving truck as well as the motorhome. ( I do have my air ticket)
Saturday July 28 we parked in beautiful little downtown La Glace. The countryside is amazing with gentle hills and wide valleys where lush crops get plenty of rain and heat. We've noticed how late night fall is this far north which makes for long evenings around the campfire. Youngsters make the gathering more fun but we're reminded why we have children when we're young and active. A great game of golf or more games and a bar b q, then a fantastic lightning show rounded off the evening and we're expecting rain tonight - judging byt the clouds. I'm impressed by the number of original farm buildings still standing in the area - including many log structures. It seems the locals have an appreciation for their heritage and are relunctant to destroy the evidence of it.
Those of you concerned for Benson's welfare will be relieved to know that he is adjusting well to life on the road. With a little coaxing he will even endure perching on the dash until we meet alarge noisy truck then he jumps back on Nan's lap to be assured that the world is not crashing down around his head. He's even beginning to endure the attention of small children and this evening was quite happy to retrieve for a five year old who learned that when she didn't chase him he would gladly return the ball. Today while we ejoyed an afternoon of family golf Nan went to Grande Prairie and returned with a game of Bocce Ball. It proved to be popular with both children and adults with a 10 year old showing the rest of us how the game should be played.
We are now in Fort St John Aug 1 and heading tomorrow stay tuned for more developments.
As we move from place to place I feel like the drifters (or saddle tramps as they were more commonly called) of old who enjoyed the hospitality of those who were more settled. To those of you, family and friends, who welcomed us and made our stay enjoyable - Thank you:
The Maple Creek area still sticks in my mind as I can enjoy the hills and trees as well as the wide open spaces. As well I must mention the winery, yes winery, south of Maple Creek, which was recently stated by a ranching family and is going great guns. Their new adobe-like building is nestled in the hills alongside a creek with fountains, ponds and vineyards. A rustic log house, no longer inhabitable, reminds one of the history of the area when settlers picked the choisest spots to erect their buildings - the ideal place offering water, firewood, building material and shelter from the prairie winds. The name of the winery is Cypress Hills Vineyards and is on the road to historic Fort Walsh, they are a must see.
From Maple Creek it was back to Rolling Hills we took a quick trip north to Patricia to connect with long-lost cousins who own the famous Patricia Hotel and Steak Pit. It was great food and great company all around. On the way back, just at dusk, we spotted the biggest set white tail antlers we'd ever seen just north of Tilley. At first I thought it was an elk. Unfortunatelty they didn't show on the photo but someone this fall have the biggest racks he's ever bagged - our plans to travel to Prince Albert squelched by doctor appointments and maladies of the motorhome type. Brake and air conditioning both requiring attention, we headed for Calgary and the generous hospitality of a good friend while the coach was being attended to. While in Calgary we attened a small rodeo in Kananaskis in order to visit the the little sweetie we used to babysit while living in Waiparous. Her dad is the pickup man and her mom the time keeper so we snuck in under the guise of grandparents of the little one. Also picking up was an old friend who daughter, a barrel racer We're very proud of her accomplishments and wish her the best in her studies. She gets to take her horse along so her dad is hauling them. It's refreshing when in these times of narcissim, to see parents who are devoted the welfare and development of ther children.
Friday, July 20n found us heading north - a brief stop to visit a dear 94 year old aunt in Olds - then on to Drayton Valey to spend a few days with friends.. More hospitality , including golf with a buddy, who is always good for a tip or two (when asked) and a side trip to Brazeau Dam to the west. The damn was build in the '60's to provide hydro power and a steady water supply to communities down stream. TGhe earthworks are amazing as the water is stored then directed several miles to the actual generating site. Huge flumes carry the water down to the generators, the the water is allowed to continue it's leisurely trip through its natual course. Drayton Valley is a bustling little burg with indications of a healthy enery industry continuing for sometime. Whin DV we discover a defective wiring job from the coach to the CRV so an hour and several dollars later we were once again on the road.
Monday evening we pulled into rain soaked Grande Prairie where evidence of abundant, if not excessive, mositure could be seen in the streets and the fields. Fortunately we missed the big downpour which flooded the s treets and left hay swaths turning black. It's disheartening to see rain filled ruts in an alfalfa field where desparate measures to save the crop are of no avail. Our Grande Prairie friends are alsway a joy to visit and we got cuddle the new grandson - a happier and more contented baby we've never seen.
While in Grande Praire I had the opportunity to drive the gravel truck I drove last fall. I'm going to encourage Nan to get her Class 3 so we can trade off driving truck as well as the motorhome. ( I do have my air ticket)
Saturday July 28 we parked in beautiful little downtown La Glace. The countryside is amazing with gentle hills and wide valleys where lush crops get plenty of rain and heat. We've noticed how late night fall is this far north which makes for long evenings around the campfire. Youngsters make the gathering more fun but we're reminded why we have children when we're young and active. A great game of golf or more games and a bar b q, then a fantastic lightning show rounded off the evening and we're expecting rain tonight - judging byt the clouds. I'm impressed by the number of original farm buildings still standing in the area - including many log structures. It seems the locals have an appreciation for their heritage and are relunctant to destroy the evidence of it.
Those of you concerned for Benson's welfare will be relieved to know that he is adjusting well to life on the road. With a little coaxing he will even endure perching on the dash until we meet alarge noisy truck then he jumps back on Nan's lap to be assured that the world is not crashing down around his head. He's even beginning to endure the attention of small children and this evening was quite happy to retrieve for a five year old who learned that when she didn't chase him he would gladly return the ball. Today while we ejoyed an afternoon of family golf Nan went to Grande Prairie and returned with a game of Bocce Ball. It proved to be popular with both children and adults with a 10 year old showing the rest of us how the game should be played.
We are now in Fort St John Aug 1 and heading tomorrow stay tuned for more developments.
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